Piatra Craiului

NATURAL

• The ridge trail

The ridge is the essence of this mountain. Seen from the air it is like a snake spine. It is narrow, steep and exposed. And you have to scramble. The full ridge hike takes you a full day with light backpack and it is not for the easy hearted.

• The north side routes – La lanțuri

All the north routes are splendid. You basically climb a wall. The comparison that comes to mind is Triglav in Slovenia. The most known route is the one called “Chains” because the vertical sections are secured with safety cables. A lot of them!

• Prapastiile Zarnestilor gorges and Cheile Dambovicioarei gorges

For those which seek easy walks the Eastern row of gorges, North and South, offer beautiful panoramas with vertical siding rock walls. Good for biking too.

• The canyon of Oratii

This is a more hidden gem. It is a narrow canyon, in summer and autumn dry that is secured with bolts for abseiling from top to bottom. Depending on your rope length you must prepare for about 5 abseils.

MAN MADE

• Magura, Pestera and Sirnea villages

This may simply one of the most beautiful vistas you will find in Romania. The pass between old Romania and Transylvania is sided by Piatra Craiului and Bucegi and in between these mountains, on steep grassy slopes, are beautiful villages with houses spread atop each hill.

• Bear reservation in Zarnesti

Near Zarnesti city you will find the only bear reservation in Romania. Caged bears were rescued, treated, re-used to forest and accommodated in a large area. There are more than 80 bears, each one with his/her heartbreaking story. A place you need to see.

DIFFICULTY

Piatra Craiului is a difficult mountain to hike no matter the season. So do not approach it lightly. It is steep, involves at least easy scrambling on most of its routes and above all it has exposure, all around you.

Some of the routes, beside your physical fitness and technical skills require constant focus for over several hours which could be quite intense if you are not used to such routes.

BEST ROUTES

Our top three routes for hiking this mountain:

1. The ridge

This is one of the must do routes in Romanian Carpathians. For sure it makes top three in all the country. The entire ridge is quite long and on a full summer day and some logistical arrangements you have your chances of making it all in one day. But it is more convenient to see it as a three sections route and tackle it as such: the North section, the South section, and the remaining South wooded tail section. This last one section is rarely trodden so you might just not think about it and set for the other two. Each one is about 4 hours long (remember though to take into account the time needed for the approach to and departure from the ridge) and it is like walking on the back of a snake while having huge drops underneath you all the time. You will find on the most adequate points in the route some shelters so you may organize the hike based on these. The views are classic for the Romanian Carpathians and maybe the most beautiful you will see in Romania.

It is recommended to start the ridge from Curmatura hut, from the North side.

2. La lanturi
3. Marele Grohotis

WINTER HIKING

Piatra Craiului in winter becomes a really tough challenge. Avalanches are not necessarily a threat on this mountain, but that is because is steep and technical. For the Western routes you need to carry full climbing gear. The ridge itself is magnificent in winter. But, if you envisage doing the entire ridge, you should plan for two days, starting from Curmatura hut and sleeping overnight in the ridge shelters. Ice axe, trekking poles, winter hiking boots with rigid soles, crampons, and shovel should be part of your individual equipment. A 30 m guiding rope might help you as well. Bad weather could be dangerous while on the ridge. The retreat routes are always on the East slope of the mountain, but choose these one well, because not all work.

TIPS

• Water is a problem on this mountain so it is necessary to carry lots of it especially in the hot summer days.
• Most of the routes are challenging and involve good balance and scrambling. So it is better to approach the mountain with light backpacks.
• Mountain hiking boots and shoes with special soles and crampons for a good grip on rock and loose stone fields are a must on all the high routes.
• Plan for at least 9 hours hike for all the high routes!
• If you are really afraid of exposure avoid the ridge, but if you like it, seek it.

DIFFICULTY

You all find on this mountain all levels of difficulty and all types of terrain (asphalt, gravel, village roads, mountain roads, trails, grass etc.).

BEST ROUTES

Our top three routes for biking this mountain are:

1. Sirnea, Pestera and Magura villages
2. From Podu Dambovitei to Zarnesti
3. Zarnesti – Plaiul Foii

SPORT CLIMBING

You can sport climb in three areas, all of them on the East side of Piatra Craiului:

• Prapastiile Zarnestilor (Check Here for more Info on climbing routes)

Access by car fom Zarnesti

• Magura village (Check Here for more Info on climbing routes)

Acces by car from Zarnesti up to Magura village and then a 30-40 minutes hike to the base of the crag

• Dambovicioara Gorges (Check Here for more Info on climbing routes)

Acces by car from Podu Dambovitei.

The routes are equipped mostly with bolts but chances are you will meet some old rusty pegs on the way. For beginners, c) option works the best with some 4 nice routes, while b) options has only two easy routes but the view from while on the crag is gorgeous. Option a) is for advanced climbers. The routes are longer and harder.

MULTI-PITCH

The classic alpine climbing area is to be found on the Western wall of Piatra Craiului. The routes may be equipped with pegs, but you need to prepare yourself for trad climbing.

You may choose easy routes where a 30m rope and some slings and runners will be enough but some other require hard climbing and full climbing gear.

For reaching any climbing route you generally need to hike up a two hour trail. In order reach the start of the trails, you follow the gravel road from Zarnesti to Plaiul Foii.

Do not forget to announce the park management for your intention, otherwise you might get fined.

INDUSTRIAL

On this mountain you will not find any ski resorts.

SKI TOURING

The East side of the mountain is suitable for cross country skiing and free ride. Cross-country is the name of the game if you want to follow the North-South direction of the mountain and enjoy the forest clearances on the way, or skiing through the villages of Magura, Pestera and Sirnea – this should be a wonderful experience. For advanced skiing and free ride you should aim for the ridge. There are three routes that should work for you: the route to Varful Ascutit (North), the one to Varful Piscul Baciului (Middle) and the one which gets to Saua Funduri (South). On the first two, be aware of the avalanche risks.

This mountain hosts the oldest and most famous trail running competition in Romania: Marathon Piatra Craiului. It gathers each year in October some thousands runners. It starts in Zarnesti, makes a full circle around the mountain and ends in the same city. It is 41 km long, with 2250m ascent and descent during the race.

More details and registration here: http://www.carpathianman.ro/eveniment.aspx?crt=4.